Introduction
Salt: a raw material
Journey into the production of one of the world's most consumed commodities.
Authors:
Olivier Pauchard, text
Thomas Kern, images
Céline Stegmüller, support video
But few raw materials does not mean none at all. Swiss ground does yield some treasures, and even in abundance. One of these is salt. After depending on other countries for centuries for its supplies, Switzerland now produces enough salt to cover almost all its own needs.
Plentiful and cheap, salt is today a common commodity that usually receives little attention. And yet, long a rather scarce product, it was once at the heart of extensive trade and even smuggling. The different human activities linked to salt have left traces that are of interest to history and heritage lovers today, and that the tourism sector is keen to promote.
From a health point of view, salt plays two conflicting roles. It is essential to life; yet, if consumed in excess, it is also a “silent killer”. In Switzerland, as elsewhere, efforts are under way to limit its consumption, even though the iodine added to table salt has helped eradicate a disease that was long endemic to some alpine areas.
The subject of salt is a fascinating one. We invite you to join us on a journey of discovery.
Salt: a raw material
Remains of an ancient sea
Remains of an ancient sea
Swiss salt was formed some 200 million years ago, after a Triassic ocean dried up. Following folding movements in the earth’s surface, the salt became trapped in the bowels of the earth, sometimes several hundred metres deep. There are thus pockets of salt on the Swiss central plateau and in the Jura mountains, and salt seams in the Alps.
Three sites
Three sites
Today, Swiss salt is extracted at three sites: the saltworks in Schweizerhalle (canton of Basel Country), Riburg (Aargau) and Bex (Vaud). The Schweizerhalle site is the largest in terms of the number of people working there, with around 130 employees, while Riburg has the highest production output (up to 1,100 tonnes of salt a day).
Variable production levels
Variable production levels
Such disparities might seem surprising, but the explanation is quite simple. As about half of the salt produced is used to keep roads clear of snow and ice, total production fluctuates greatly depending on the severity of the winter. In 2019, the three sites produced 477,325 tonnes of salt and had 222,283 tonnes in reserve.
Also last year, 500,980 tonnes of salt were sold in all. Contrary to what one might expect, table salt represented only a small proportion of the overall amount.
From rock to salt crystals
In simple terms: water is injected under pressure into the rock salt. As the salt dissolves in the water, a saltwater solution called brine is produced. This is then heated to a high temperature in large evaporators, so that the water evaporates, allowing the salt to recrystallize. Finally, residual moisture is driven out using dryers.
In the bowels of the mountain
This vintage sequence was shot by Swiss public television in the Bex salt mines in May 1963.
Salt sovereignty
Salt sovereignty
The sector is governed by a single entity, Swiss Saltworks. Covering the three production sites, this public company is owned by the 26 cantons and the Principality of Liechtenstein, and applies the salt rights on their behalf.
Concretely, this monopoly means that it is on the whole not possible to freely import and market foreign salt in Switzerland. This rule is however no longer as strictly applied as in the past, and import regulations have been substantially liberalized in recent years.
Private individuals may freely import up to 50kg of table salt a year for their personal consumption. For larger amounts, an import authorization must be obtained from Swiss Saltworks, which will only grant it if the imported salt does not exist within its own product range (for example, fleur de sel of specific origin which is not available from Swiss Saltworks).
Switzerland authorizes up to 6,000kg of salt per importer, per year and per product type, subject to a flat-rate tax of CHF100 ($112.6) for amounts up to 500kg and CHF150 francs for amounts between 500kg and 6,000kg.
The cantons still stand by their salt sovereignty. Among the reasons given for maintaining the monopoly, they cite Switzerland’s self-sufficiency in terms of supply, price stability thanks to this system, the guarantee of environmentally friendly production and the possibility of adding fluoride and iodine to the salt.
Salt and health: when Janus ends up on our plates
Salt and health: when Janus ends up on our plates
For better, because salt has been one of the building blocks of life since the dawn of time, essential for all living things. It also helps combat certain health conditions.
But also for worse, as too much salt causes high blood pressure, and therefore cardiovascular disease.
“From being a vital source of nutrition, salt has also become a kind of enemy number one since the second half of the 20th century. It really is a two-faced Janus. Without salt we die; but with too much salt, we also die,” sums up doctor and historian Vincent Barras.
“Without salt we die; but with too much salt, we also die.” Vincent Barras, doctor and historian
Thermal spas, a thousand-year-old tradition
Thermal spas, a thousand-year-old tradition
“These baths were exploited for their salt content, not just sodium chloride, but also other mineral salts,” Vincent Barras explains. “Salt was believed to cure many ailments. You didn’t just immerse yourself in the water, you also drank it. People took the waters all over Switzerland, although different spas had different properties. For example, water rich in sulphur was recommended for skin diseases.”
Thermalism had its heyday in the 19th century. Around 1860, Bern canton alone had 73 thermal spas. And in 1870, the Federal Statistical Office listed 610 thermal and mineral springs.
The golden years ended, however, in the first half of the 20th century. Spa resorts fell on hard times as a result of the two world wars, which kept customers away, as well as medical advances and new trends in tourism.
The situation has been looking up over the past few decades, however. Medical thermalism has lost none of its draw, and the spa industry has managed to ride the wave of “wellness” and stress management.
Switzerland, a spa country
Did you know that the hottest thermal springs in Switzerland are in Lavey (Valais), where the water gushes out at a temperature of 69°C.
The baths in Baden (Aargau) have the most mineral-rich thermal water in Switzerland.
Salt a cure for ‘cretinism’
Salt a cure for ‘cretinism’
Valais canton was particularly affected by this scourge; so much so that it became an object of interest to tourists, and “cretinism” was specifically associated with Valais in the famous Encyclopédie by Diderot and d'Alembert.
Nowadays, much of the table salt sold in Switzerland contains added iodine, as well as fluoride to combat tooth decay.
It should be noted that this is a peculiarly Swiss measure. In other countries, such as France, adding elements to foodstuffs in this way is not permitted by law.
Even in Switzerland, despite the positive effects observed, some people now question the need to add iodine to salt.
“Nowadays, this measure is not so relevant, as iodine is available from other food sources. Our diet has become infinitely more varied; for example, we now have much greater access to saltwater fish. Iodine can also have adverse effects, and the salt itself can be very harmful in some cases. Today, iodizing salt would not necessarily be adopted as a solution,” comments Vincent Barras.
CRETINS: this name is given to a breed of men born in Valais in rather large numbers, especially in Sion, their capital. They are imbeciles who are deaf and dumb and almost insensitive to blows, and have goitres that hang down to their waists.The Encyclopédie by Diderot and d’Alembert
The solution comes from Valais
But the canton was in the end the source of the solution.
Salt, a silent killer
Salt, a silent killer
“The main harm caused by salt is high blood pressure. Epidemiologists have demonstrated the link between salt content and high blood pressure, which is a major contributing factor to cardiovascular disease, a leading cause of death in Switzerland,” explains Vincent Barras.
Figures from the Federal Statistical Office do indeed show that cardiovascular disease is by far the main cause of death in Switzerland, together with cancer. The WHO’s recommendations are echoed by Swiss medical experts. The Swiss Medical Review states, for example, that reducing salt consumption is “an important public health measure”.
Average salt consumption in Switzerland is nine grams a day, almost twice the recommended amount. A strategy for reducing consumption has therefore been drawn up, under the auspices of the Federal Food Safety and Veterinary Office (FSVO). Established in 2013, this Salt Strategy has now been integrated into the Swiss Nutrition Strategy 2017–2024. The goal is to reduce consumption to eight grams in the medium term and below the critical five-gram threshold in the long term.
To achieve this, the authorities still rely on voluntary action. They intend to raise public awareness of the problem and engage in dialogue with the food industry so that it reduces the salt content in processed foods.
What should we watch out for?
Above all, however, we should moderate our consumption of ready-prepared foods. The FSVO notes that the foodstuffs that contribute most to salt consumption are bread and other baked goods and pastries, cheese and cheese products, meat products, ready meals, salty snacks and soups.
A history rich in salt
A history rich in salt
This has left traces that are of interest both to history lovers and to the tourism sector.
Salt as a diplomatic issue
Salt as a diplomatic issue
In Roman times, salt came mainly from the Mediterranean basin. It was subsequently also brought in from the French Jura, where there is evidence of salt production going back to the Neolithic era.
France was long the main purveyor of salt to western Switzerland. Eastern and southern Switzerland got their supplies from other neighbouring regions.
“The choice of supplier depended on the price, quality and distance, which influenced the price,” explains historian Christian Schülé. Political circumstances also played a role; there was such a thing as salt diplomacy. For instance, the Treaty of Fribourg of 1516, which established a perpetual peace between the Swiss Confederation and the Kingdom of France, contained a clause on salt. Some deliveries were agreed on in diplomatic treaties and others simply by trade agreements.”
Salt finally started to be mined in Switzerland from the 16th century, in the Bex region, which was also referred to as the “Aigle government’s salt mountain”, and was under Bernese control. But production levels were never high enough, not even for the Republic of Bern’s own needs, hence the need to keep importing salt.
In the 19th century, drilling led to the discovery of new deposits in the Basel region. “This was a complete game-changer, as now a lot of salt could be produced. The cantons could become self-reliant and stop importing,” explains Christian Schülé.
Finally, Swiss production
In the 19th century, drilling led to the discovery of new deposits in the Basel region. “It totally changed the situation, because we were able to produce a lot. Cantons were then able to gain independence and end their reliance on imports,” recalls Christian Schülé.
On the trail of the Via Salina
“There was a thriving trade,” says historian Christian Schülé. “Tonnes and tonnes of salt were transported from France to Switzerland. Yverdon acted as a hub. There, the salt was centralized before continuing its journey towards Bern and other Swiss cantons. There were huge warehouses. The city of Zurich even had its own depot there at one time.”
Ever since Switzerland became self-sufficient in salt in the 19th century, the convoys have deserted this salt route. But its memory lingers on. The Via Salina is now one of Switzerland’s twelve cultural routes.
The itinerary runs from the Royal Saltworks at Arc-et-Senans (Franche-Comté) to Bern. Along the way, visitors can discover several UNESCO-listed World Heritage sites. On the Swiss section of the route, relatively few visible traces of this trade remain. However, one can still see the rutted tracks used by the convoys to negotiate the steep inclines of the Jura mountains.
Salt as a tourist attraction
In German-speaking Switzerland, Swiss Saltworks runs a salt museum known as the “Salzkammer”. Across fifteen rooms, visitors get a complete panorama of the world of salt: extraction, chemical composition, trade, culture… The Riburg and Schweizerhalle saltworks can also be visited.
In French-speaking Switzerland, the Bex Salt Mines are also open to the public. Visitors are invited to delve into the heart of the salt mountain and learn about the work which was started by miners 500 years ago and which continues today.